The Ultimate DIY Guide to Installing Asphalt Roofing Rolls

What Is Asphalt Roll Roofing and Is It Right for Your Roof?

 

Knowing how to install asphalt roofing roll correctly can save you money and protect your property — but only if it’s the right material for your situation. Here’s a quick overview:

How to install asphalt roll roofing (quick steps):

1. Prepare the deck — Clean, dry, and inspect the roof deck; install drip edge
2. Lay underlayment — Apply asphalt-saturated felt horizontally with 2-inch overlaps
3. Install starter strips — Nail 9-inch strips along eaves and rakes
4. Apply main courses — Work up the roof with 3-inch top laps and 6-inch end laps
5. Seal all seams — Apply roofing cement and press firmly with a roller
6. Flash penetrations and valleys — Use two-layer valley flashing and proper edge flashing
7. Cap hips and ridges — Cut 12-inch strips, bend lengthwise, cement and nail

Best for: Sheds, detached garages, workshops, and other low-slope outbuildings — not primary residences.

Asphalt roll roofing is the most affordable roofing material available. Material costs typically range from $1.50 to $7.50 per square foot based on online industry data — though your actual project cost will vary based on scope, deck condition, and local labor. Each roll covers roughly 96 to 100 square feet and weighs around 72 pounds. It installs much faster than traditional shingles.

But it comes with real trade-offs. The lifespan is short — typically 5 to 8 years — compared to 20 or more years for composite shingles. It’s also less attractive and can hurt resale value on residential properties. For homeowners in Pittsfield, MA, Dalton, MA, and the surrounding Berkshire County area, it’s best suited to functional outbuildings where budget matters more than appearance.

Is this a DIY job? It can be — for simple, single-story structures. But mistakes in flashing, sealing, or nailing are common and lead to early failures. If you’re unsure at any point, calling a licensed professional is always the smarter call.

I’m Christopher Battaini, owner of Chris Battaini Roofing and Seamless Gutters, and with over two decades of roofing experience across Massachusetts, I’ve seen what separates a roll roofing job that lasts from one that leaks within a season. In this guide, I’ll walk you through exactly how to install asphalt roofing roll the right way — and flag the spots where a professional’s eye makes all the difference.

Introduction to Asphalt Roll Roofing and Its Ideal Applications

Asphalt roll roofing, also known in the industry as Mineral-Surfaced Roll (MSR) roofing, is essentially a thinner, lighter, and continuous version of standard asphalt shingles. It consists of an organic or fiberglass felt mat saturated with asphalt and coated with tough mineral granules on the top surface to guard against UV rays.

However, unlike individual shingles, roll roofing is designed to cover large areas quickly with minimal seams. Because of its structural properties, it is highly specialized. It is not designed to handle the aesthetic demands or the wind-uplift profiles of a high-pitch residential home. Instead, we recommend roll roofing for low-slope, unoccupied structures such as:

• Detached backyard workshops
• Potting sheds and agricultural barns
• Carports and covered patios
• Small detached garages

Understanding your roof’s slope (or pitch) is the single most critical factor before deciding on roll roofing. Roof pitch is calculated as a ratio of vertical rise to horizontal run.

• 1:12 Pitch (1 inch of vertical rise for every 12 inches of horizontal run): This is the absolute minimum slope required for roll roofing. At this low slope, you must use the concealed nail method to prevent standing water from penetrating nail holes.
• 2:12 Pitch or Higher: If your roof has at least a 2:12 slope, you can safely use either the concealed nail method or the exposed nail method.
• Below 1:12 Pitch: Roll roofing should never be installed on completely flat roofs or pitches below 1:12. Standing water will inevitably back up under the seams. Flat roofs require commercial-grade single-ply membrane systems like EPDM rubber or specialized TPO membranes.

If you are dealing with a low-slope residential extension or a primary living space in Pittsfield, MA or Dalton, MA, we strongly advise looking into more durable residential options. You can read about alternative systems in our Asphalt Shingle Roofing Complete Guide.

Essential Tools, Materials, and Preparation for Roll Roofing

Before you begin, gathering the correct toolkit is essential to ensure your installation proceeds smoothly and safely.

Your Toolkit Checklist

• Safety Gear: A high-grip pair of work boots, safety glasses, heavy-duty work gloves, and a certified safety harness with a lifeline if working on elevated surfaces.
• Hand Tools: A sharp utility knife (with plenty of replacement hook blades for cutting tough asphalt), a chalk line, a stiff-bristle broom, a hammer or pneumatic roofing nailer, tin snips for trimming metal drip edges, and a flat trowel for spreading cement.
• Specialty Equipment: A 75-to-80-pound weighted roller is highly recommended to press the seams together and ensure a permanent, bubble-free bond.

Materials Checklist

• Asphalt Roll Roofing: Calculate your square footage and add 5% to 10% extra for overlaps, overhangs, and waste.
• Underlayment: Standard ASTM-rated 15-pound asphalt-saturated felt paper.
• Roofing Nails: 1-inch to 1-1/4-inch galvanized roofing nails with a minimum 3/8-inch head. Nails must be long enough to penetrate at least 3/4 inches into your roof deck or completely through the plywood sheathing.
• Lap Cement / Asphalt Plastic Cement: Ensure your adhesive conforms to the strict ASTM D2822, Type II standard. This premium grade prevents early cracking and maintains its seal through harsh Berkshire County winters.
• Metal Drip Edge: Galvanized steel or aluminum drip edge to protect the eaves and rakes.

Preparing the Roof Deck

Excellent preparation is the secret behind a long-lasting roof. If you are installing a new roof in Lanesborough, MA or Dalton, MA, we strongly recommend stripping any old roofing material down to the bare wooden deck. While some local codes technically allow laying roll roofing over a single layer of old shingles, doing so creates an uneven surface that makes it almost impossible to get a watertight seal on the seams.

1. Inspect the Decking: Check the plywood or OSB sheathing for soft spots, water damage, rot, or mold. Replace any damaged panels immediately.
2. Remove Protrusions: Pull out or hammer flat any protruding nails, staples, or splinters. Even a minor bump can wear through thin roll roofing over time.
3. Clean Thoroughly: Use a stiff broom or leaf blower to clear away all dirt, dust, pine needles, and debris. The deck must be bone dry before you apply underlayment.
4. Install the Drip Edge: Nail your metal drip edge along the eaves first. When you apply the underlayment, it should run over the drip edge at the eaves, but go under the drip edge along the rakes (sides) to direct water flow correctly.

For more details on proper deck preparation and underlayment selection, check out our guide on Roll With It: Your Ultimate Guide to Asphalt Roll Roofing Installation.

How to Install Asphalt Roofing Roll: Step-by-Step Methods

There are two primary ways to install asphalt roll roofing: the concealed nail method and the exposed nail method.

To maximize the service life of your low-slope roof, we always recommend the concealed nail method. Because the nails are hidden beneath the overlapping layers of roofing and sealed with heavy lap cement, they are never exposed to rain, snow, or ice. This drastically reduces the risk of rust and leaks.

Let’s break down both techniques step-by-step.

How to Install Asphalt Roofing Roll Using the Concealed Nail Method

The concealed nail method provides the ultimate protection for low slopes between 1:12 and 2:12.

Step 1: Lay the Underlayment and Mark Chalk Lines

Roll out your 15-pound asphalt-saturated felt paper horizontally, starting at the bottom edge (eaves). Overlap each row by at least 2 inches. Secure it with just enough fasteners to hold it in place. Next, snap a horizontal chalk line exactly 35 inches up from the lower eave line. This gives you a perfectly straight reference line for your first course of roll roofing.

Step 2: Install the Starter Strip

Cut a 9-inch-wide starter strip from your roll of roofing. Position this strip along the eaves and rakes so that it overhangs the drip edge by 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.

Fasten the starter strip with two rows of nails: one row placed 1 inch from the eave edge, and the second row 8 inches from the edge. Space the nails 4 inches apart on center within each row.

Step 3: Apply the First Main Course

Measure and cut your first full-width (36-inch) sheet of roll roofing.

Pro Tip: Cut your rolls into manageable 12- to 18-foot lengths. Let them sit flat in the sun for 15 to 30 minutes before installing. This “relaxes” the asphalt, preventing unsightly wrinkles, bubbles, and waves after installation.

Align the first sheet flush with the outer edges of your starter strip. Fasten only the upper edge of this sheet using galvanized roofing nails spaced 4 inches apart on center, positioned 1 inch below the top edge. The bottom and side edges will be held down by adhesive.

Step 4: Apply Lap Cement and Position the Next Course

Spread a continuous, uniform layer of ASTM D2822 Type II asphalt plastic cement over the top 3 inches of the installed sheet. The cement layer should be between 1/8 and 1/4 of an inch thick.

Warning: Avoid applying excessive cement. Too much adhesive traps volatile gases as it cures, which causes the roll roofing to blister and crack.

Position the next course of roll roofing, overlapping the lower sheet by exactly 3 inches. Press it firmly into the cement.

Step 5: Seal the End Laps

When you must join two rolls end-to-end, you must create a 6-inch end lap. Ensure that the end laps in succeeding courses do not line up with each other.

• Clean the overlap area thoroughly.
• Apply a full coat of lap cement across the entire 6-inch overlap zone.
• Press the overlapping sheet down firmly.
• Use a 75-to-80-pound weighted roller over all cemented seams to ensure complete, uniform adhesion.

For a deeper dive into professional seam sealing and technical specifications, refer to the Asphalt & SBS Roll Roofing Installation Details.

How to Install Asphalt Roofing Roll Using the Exposed Nail Method

The exposed nail method is faster and uses less cement, but it should only be used on roofs with a slope of 2:12 or greater. Because the nail heads remain exposed to the elements, this method is more prone to weathering and leaks over time.

Step 1: Prep and Position the First Sheet

Lay down your underlayment and snap your chalk lines. Position your first full-width (36-inch) sheet of roll roofing along the eave, allowing a 1/4 to 3/8-inch overhang.

Step 2: Nail the Edges

Drive nails in a row 1 inch from the eave and rake edges, spacing them 3 inches apart on center. Along the top edge, drive nails 1 inch from the edge, spaced 12 inches apart. This top row will eventually be covered by the next overlapping sheet.

Step 3: Apply Lap Cement and Overlap

Spread a 3-inch-wide band of lap cement along the top edge of the installed sheet. Lay the next course of roll roofing over the cemented area, overlapping it by 3 inches.

Step 4: Fasten the Seam

Nail through the overlapping seam of both sheets. Drive the nails 1 inch below the top edge of the overlap, spacing them 3 inches apart on center.

Step 5: Seal the Exposed Nail Heads

To protect your roof from moisture, apply a small dab of high-quality asphalt plastic cement over every single exposed nail head. This extra step is vital to prevent water from slowly seeping down the shank of the nail into your wood decking.

If you want to compare roll roofing with other residential methods, read our comprehensive overview of Roof Installation.

Crucial Flashing, Sealing, and Weather Considerations

When learning how to install asphalt roofing roll, many DIYers focus entirely on the flat sections and ignore the transitions. However, over 90% of roof leaks occur at valleys, eaves, rakes, and wall penetrations.

Weather and Temperature Limits

Asphalt is highly temperature-sensitive.

• Never install roll roofing when ambient temperatures are below 45°F to 50°F. In cold weather, the asphalt coating becomes stiff and brittle. Bending or unrolling it will cause the sheet to crack, destroying its waterproofing properties.
• If you must perform an emergency repair during a cold Berkshire County winter, store the rolls in a heated indoor space (above 65°F) until the exact moment of installation.
• Conversely, avoid working in extreme heat (above 90°F). Hot asphalt softens quickly, and walking on it can scuff away the protective mineral granules, leaving the underlying asphalt exposed to rapid UV degradation.

Best Practices for Flashing Valleys and Penetrations

• Valleys: Valleys handle the highest volume of water on a roof. We recommend a “two-layer” valley flashing system. First, apply a 12-inch wide strip of roll roofing centered in the valley. Next, apply a full-width 36-inch sheet over it, cementing all edges thoroughly.
• Penetrations (Pipes and Chimneys): Cut a collar out of the roll roofing to fit around the base of any vent pipe. Apply a generous layer of ASTM D2822 plastic cement to the bottom of the collar, slide it over the pipe, and seal the edges with a neat bead of sealant.
• Hips and Ridges: To cap your hips and ridges, cut 12-inch-wide strips of roll roofing. Bend them lengthwise to match the angle of the ridge. Apply a 3-inch layer of cement on both sides of the ridge, press the cap strip down, and secure it with nails spaced 4 inches apart, covering the nail heads with lap cement.

If you are working on a more complex roof structure in Lenox, MA or Lanesborough, MA, traditional roll roofing may not offer the flexibility required to seal these areas safely. In these cases, it is highly recommended to upgrade to robust shingles. Learn more about your options in our guide on Asphalt Shingle Roofing.

Frequently Asked Questions about Roll Roofing

What is the minimum slope for asphalt roll roofing?

The absolute minimum slope is 1:12 when using the concealed nail method. If you are using the exposed nail method, the minimum slope is 2:12. Roll roofing should never be installed on completely flat roofs, as standing water will eventually seep through the seams.

How long does an asphalt roll roof last?

With proper installation and routine maintenance, an asphalt roll roof typically lasts between 5 to 8 years (up to 12 years under ideal conditions). Because of this short lifespan, it is best used as a budget-friendly option for utility buildings rather than your main home.

Can you install roll roofing over existing shingles?

While it is technically possible if the old shingles are completely flat and single-layered, we highly advise against it. Old shingles create an uneven surface that prevents the seams of your roll roofing from sealing flat, leading to early wind damage and leaks. Stripping the roof to the bare deck is always the best practice. For a full breakdown of the re-roofing process, read our Roof Replacement Complete Guide.

Conclusion

Installing roll roofing is a fast, budget-friendly way to protect your sheds, detached garages, and outdoor structures. However, achieving a perfectly flat, watertight seal requires strict attention to detail, proper temperature management, and flawless seam sealing.

If you are dealing with a complex project, a steep slope, or if you want the peace of mind that comes with a premium workmanship warranty, hiring a professional is the safest and most cost-effective path in the long run.

At Chris Battaini Roofing and Seamless Gutters, we serve homeowners and business owners across Berkshire County — including Pittsfield, MA, Lenox, MA, and the surrounding areas. We specialize in providing top-tier Residential Roofing and commercial services with owner-led, on-site supervision and exceptional warranties.

Don’t leave your property’s protection to chance. Call us today at +413-441-4840 or fill out our online contact form to get a professional, accurate quote for your next roofing project!